294 sun surfing
The turbulent sea level continues to extend vastly in front of you, and the dark blue water shows a gradually getting darker trend, rushing towards the horizon. At the end of your sight, you can only see large tracts of black, which cannot be described at all. What kind of abyss is hidden under that deep sea water? It’s grand and majestic..
There are almost no clouds visible in the blue sky, and the golden sunlight falls vertically without any obstruction, creating ripples on the sparkling sea and painting every wave with a light color. Let the roaring ocean transform into a completely different color, calm and beautiful, as if it has opened its arms and nurtured the origin of life in the world.
But at this moment, an excited voice shouted, breaking the silence and peace, "Here we come."！”
A small figure was lying on a long and narrow surfboard. Seeing the jelly-colored waves sweeping in the distance, he moved his arms nimbly and moved forward quickly in the direction of the waves. The waves were reflected against the background of the vast sea. , it seems to be no more than the height of a finger; but compared to that small figure, it is nearly as tall as three people. This should be a huge wave of five or six meters, enough to destroy fragile lives..
However, the figure on the ivory white surfboard was not afraid at all. Instead, he was extremely excited. He was looking at the huge waves in front of him with all his concentration. When the head of the board could feel the rising momentum of the wave, he stood up quickly. Bend your legs slightly, grasp your center of gravity, and then climb all the way up on the waves..
I saw him walking through the mint blue waves, with his open arms like an eagle, soaring in the wind. The refreshing waves were constantly flying in the air, mixed with golden and blue halos, one by one. The flowers burst open and sparsely fluttered on the cheeks. In a daze, it seemed as if the whole person was integrated with the ocean..
The waves reached their highest point, and he also climbed to the highest point on his surfboard, and then penetrated the thin canopy of waves. His whole body seemed to be riding on the waves, with his body's center of gravity solid and stable, perfectly balanced and accurate. Control makes the majestic waves of the sea surrender to the surfboard, and the natural sliding becomes a beautiful enjoyment..
The waves calmed down little by little, and the surfboard gradually returned to the sea level. Finally, the man standing on the surfboard raised his arms high and stood up straight with his bent knees. Cheering with arms raised, hearty laughter flying and dancing amidst the roaring waves.
Paul raised his hands high and applauded, with a big smile on his face. Even without any words, his body expressed the truest feelings in his heart. He turned his head and looked at the friends surfing beside him. , Yangsheng asked, “Is this really his second time surfing?？”
Andre Hamilton also applauded and congratulated him, and replied sideways, "You shouldn't have come to ask me. I wasn't the one who called Renly a madman." Andre shrugged, showing no surprise at all. Nickname looks like, "However, my personal advice is, never try to second guess his behavior, because he will always make you feel frustrated.”
There was a hint of ridicule in those words, but you could hear his sincerity, which made Paul laugh heartily and nodded, "I deeply agree with this.".”
“"Passion 5" was officially announced a week ago, and there were no more problems in the post-production shooting. All filming progressed very smoothly. Paul has personally experienced the entire filming process. He really can't agree with Andre's evaluation just now. Duo. This series of works has reached its fifth part. He has participated in the filming of four of them, but he has never had such a shooting experience. It is truly eye-opening..
Paul believed that Van would agree with him.
After the shooting, Paul followed his own habit and chose a quiet coastline to have fun surfing and relax on vacation. It just so happened that he encountered the best surfing season of the year..
Every December, the waves in Oahu, Hawaii are at their best. At least three international surfing competitions will be held on Oahu at this time..
For Hollywood, this is the moment when the awards season kicks off. Almost no one wants to miss the bustle and bustle of Los Angeles. However, for Paul, the noise has nothing to do with him, so he doesn’t miss it every year. It would be easy to miss the glory of Hawaii.
This time, Paul invited Renly to go with him. In the early days of "Furious 5", they had discussed going to Oahu to surf together, and Renly seemed very proactive. However, one moment after another, After entering the awards season, "Buried Alive" has shown a good upward momentum. Logically speaking, it is best for him to return to Los Angeles and start the public relations work of the academy..
Paul originally thought Renly would refuse, but he still extended the invitation out of politeness. Unexpectedly, Renly actually nodded in agreement! So, he was lucky enough to see the scene just now.
After surfing, Renly lay down on the surfboard again, sliding his hands with his hands, and slowly slid towards Paul and Andre..
In Hawaii in December, the temperature is still around 20 degrees, warm and comfortable. There is no heat in midsummer, but it is far away from the harshness of winter. Occasionally there will be thunderstorms, and the rain-like mist of water vapor makes the air flutter restlessly. The heat makes me want to swim in it involuntarily and relax completely..
This made Renly lucky that he did not go to Los Angeles, but came to Hawaii. He needed a vacation. The consecutive filming of "Crazy Love" and "Furious 5" lasted nearly four months. During the time, there is not even room to breathe. One work is a mental overdraft, and the other is a physical exertion. It is like a roller coaster with ups and downs, which is really exhausting. He needs to relax his tense spirit. Then you can get back to work.
More importantly, he needs to slow down and enjoy the scenery of life.
Surfing is a wonderful thing. It seems to be integrated with the sea, and it seems to be controlling the waves. The whole person is soaked in the magic of nature, and truly releases the sound of wind in your ears, the splash of water on your face, and the flowing waves. , the pull of gravity, everything is so wonderful. Only by truly feeling the rhythm of the waves can you appreciate the style of freedom on the surfboard..
Just now, it was the first time that he had completely surfed the entire wave, without making any mistakes, mistakes, or flaws. From the rising period of the wave to the disappearance of the entire wave, he had completely performed the surfing process; and, just now, It’s still a big wave of nearly six meters..
This is different from rock climbing. You feel completely different limits, but the joy and enjoyment of embracing freedom are similar. Renly finally understood why some people are so keen on surfing and participate in it every day without getting tired of it. He has now also I started to fall in love with this sport.
“Bang bang bang." Not only Paul and Andre, but other surfing friends also applauded and praised Renly..
This is the east coast of Oahu. Comparatively speaking, it is a relatively private surfing spot. Real surfers all know this place. If the north shore of Oahu is a resort for professional players, then the east coast is for amateurs. A paradise for lovers.
The waves here are turbulent and huge, but not as dangerous as the barrel-shaped waves on the north shore. Occasionally, you can encounter top waves of five or six meters high. It is perfect for intermediate and advanced amateur players..
Renly and others are not alone here. On the gentle sea near the beach, there are more than a dozen surfboards floating on them, with surfers of different ages sitting on them. When there is no surf, they will choose to stay away. There is a little spot to recover your strength; but when you are ready to continue surfing, you will slide to the waiting area in front and start waiting for the wave..
Renly did not show any modesty, but gave a curtain call of the stage play, and then returned to Paul and Andre's side..
Andre lightly tapped the palm of his left hand with the fingers of his right hand. There was almost no applause. He just made a gesture of applause to express his respect and sighed, "Sure enough, Renly is still Renly.".”
Time passed by, and they were no longer children at Eton; however, when they met again, Renly could still make him feel amazed and admired..
It had been several months since the last free-solo rock climbing. Unexpectedly, the two people actually met again in Hawaii, and it was another extreme sport in the surfing paradise. After staying away from the aristocratic circle in London, the two people found each other again. Common ground, the bridge of friendship is rebuilt again.
Renly smiled and said, "But Andre is no longer the same Andre..”
This sentence made both of them smile slightly. Andre bent down, wet his arms with sea water, combed his messy hair back to prevent the hanging silk from blocking his vision, and then faced Paul and said to Renly, "I'm out.”
After saying that, Andre started paddling with both hands and went to the front area to wait for the waves..
“I have seen before that surfers are completely caught in the wave, and they are constantly sprinting up and down the inner wall of the wave, and they have to fight against the force of gravity.……”
Renly described it to Paul. He had experienced the style of surfing when he watched the movie "Bad Thief" in his previous life. When he actually participated, it felt more exciting than imagined, but it seemed to be the same as in the movie. different.
Paul immediately reacted, "That's the barrel-shaped giant wave, which is the most difficult. As you said, it needs to resist gravity and form inertia. It's not just a matter of balance, it requires high skills. "For surfing, Paul is Renly's teacher," I once went to the North Shore for a challenge. Wow, that experience was really unbearable. I fell all over and was bruised. It felt like I had been beaten for two days and two nights..”
That vivid description made Renly laugh loudly, "After you said that, I'm a little curious. Isn't there a professional surfing competition on the North Shore tomorrow? How about it? Do you want to go there and broaden your horizons?？”
Seize every moment of the present, cherish every moment of the present, and interpret life into completely different colors. This is truly living..
Comments